Like a musical chord, every fragrance blend (or “accord”) is made up of different notes – top, heart, and base – creating a new, harmonious, synergistic fragrance.
The word "Synergy" is defined as the interaction or cooperation of two or more organizations, substances, or other agents to produce a combined effect greater than the sum of their separate effects.
Synergy between essential oils is the combination of two or more essential oils creating a blend that is greater than the sum of their separate effects.
The Olfactory or Fragrance Pyramid
The Olfactory or Fragrance Pyramid is a classification of olfactory notes that make up a fragrance. Fragrance notes contribute to the change in fragrance over time, from its first to its lasting impression.
Fragrance is classified according to the degree of volatility, the evaporation rate, of the essential oil.
The word ‘volatile’ is from the Latin word ‘volaire’ which means to fly away.
Essential oils are highly volatile and do not evaporate at the same rate. The rate of volatility (evaporation) determines how long the scent will exist when released in to the air and how long it takes for the body to absorb the essential oil when applied to the skin. It is important to note that top, middle and base notes do not determine the length of time essential oils stay in the body. This is determined by the individual and their metabolic rate.
Volatility is determined by molecular structure.
| Head | Heart | Base |
Also referred to as | Top | Middle, Body, Bouquet | Bottom, Drydown, Fixative |
Volatility | High | Medium | Low |
Molecular Size | smaller, more volatile molecules | a blend of different sized molecules in more or less equal proportions | a predominance of larger, heavier molecules |
Evaporation Rate / Average Duration (high quality, unadulterated essential oils) | 5-15/30 minutes | 15/20 - 60 minutes; up to 4 hours | 60 minutes or longer; up to 1-2 days |
| Head | Heart | Base |
Purpose | Provides the first impression of the blend fragrance | Forms the body and heart; the essence of the blend fragrance, the "soul" or "personality"; ensure the continuity of the top notes and prepares transition and buffering of the stronger base notes | Anchors the fragrance providing depth, richness, and complexity |
Percentage of the Blend, % | 30 | 50 - They are the most complex and great for bringing together the fresh top and the warm base notes | 20 - They are perfect for giving lasting power to fragrances and warm up the lighter top and mid notes |
Fragrance Families | Citrus, Floral, Herb | Floral, Fruit, Spice, Light Wood | Wood (Bark, Resin, Root) |
Scent Descriptors | Fresh, sweet, energizing, uplifting | Warm, soft, balancing | Balsamic, musky, woodsy |
Effects | Spirit body | Emotional body | Physical body |
Some essential oils have similar properties and their volatility can be classed together; however, they are generally classified by a sole defining note.
Head | Middle | Base |
Anise Basil Balsam Bay Laurel Bergamot Cinnamon Clary Sage Coriander Eucalyptus Grapefruit Hyssop Juniper Lavender Lemon Lemongrass Lime Mandarin Melissa Neroli Niaouli Orange Peppermint Rosewood Sage Spearmint Tangerine Tea Tree Thyme Verbena | Allspice Anise Balsam Bergamot Black Pepper Blue Tansy Cardamom Chamomile Cinnamon Citronella Clary Sage Clove Cypress Eucalyptus Fennel Geranium Ginger Helichrysum Ho Wood Hyssop Jasmine Helichrysum Juniper Lavender Marjoram Melissa Myrtle Myrrh Neroli Nutmeg Parsley Peppermint Pine Rose Rosmary Rosewood Tea Tree Thyme Violet leaf Yarrow Ylang Ylang Sage | Angelica Balsam Cedarwood Cinnamon Copaiba Frankincense Ginger Helichrysum Jasmine Myrrh Oakmoss Patchouli Peppermint Rose Rosewood Sandalwood Turmeric Valerian Vanilla Vetiver Ylang Ylang |
Blending with Fragrance Notes
The key to a harmonious synergistic blend is balanced notes.
Here are a several commonly used blending ratios:
3:5:2 - 3 parts top note, 5 parts middle note, and 2 parts base note
2:2:1 - 2 parts top note, 2 parts middle note, and 1 part base note
1:1:1 - 1 part top note, 1 part middle note, and 1 part base note
Once you have added your essential oils to a glass bottle it is important to swirl and shake the bottle for 2-3 minutes to allow the essential oils to blend together.
After creating your blend allow it to rest and the fragrance to develop for 24-48 hours (or longer) before use.
Choose a woody base note, a floral middle note, and a citrusy top note and create a blend using one of the above ratios.
Notice how the scent unfolds over time.
What do you notice?
How do the scents affect your memories, emotions, and feelings.
Note: If you are applying the blend topically, keep in mind that scent can be affected by skin pH.
Humans can distinguish more than 1 trillion scents and our sense of smell is far more discriminating than previously thought. Source: Humans Can Identify More Than 1 Trillion Smells | National Institutes of Health (NIH)
Scent molecules affect you subconsciously even when you’re no longer consciously aware of them.
Sources
Notes (fragrantica.com)
Perfume Search by Color (fragrantica.com)
Perfume Groups (fragrantica.com)
Understanding Fragrance Notes: Top, Middle and Base – 1502 Candle Co.
What Is The Fragrance Pyramid? Perfume Notes, Composition & Life-Cycle - (bespokeunit.com)
What Are Top, Middle and Base Notes in Perfume? A Pyramid From Fresh to Deep scents - Experimental Perfume Club